
3 oz vanilla sandalwood soap homemade writing made with shea and natural ingredients
(more…)

Surprise! The right kind of soap does wonders for your skin. Healthy skin is dependent upon allowing ones pores to breath while at the same time providing a barrier to retain moisture and protect your skins own natural oil balance. We make only vegetable-based cold process soap because it retains the highest proportions of protective emollient oils and skin-hydrating glycerin while remaining absent of potentially pore clogging animal tallow and harsh chemical solvents. Many of our customers have found that using our properly formulated cold process soap reduces their dependence on hand and body lotion.
(more…)

Certified Organic Ingredients Acne Fighting, Balancing, & Healing 98% Organic The moisturizing and healing properties of pure Shea Butter and skin treatment benefits of Sandalwood Oil balance the powerful natural acne fighting properties of African Black Soap extract. This body treatment balances skin with soothing Oats, healing Aloe Vera and anti-oxidant Vitamin E. In 1992, fresh out of college and without jobs, Rich and Nyema began selling Oils, Incense, Shea Butter and African Black Soap on the streets of New York. Recognizing the needs of undeserved customers, the enterprising Street Vendors made natural soaps, salves and treatments from family recipes used for decades in Africa. Today, Nubian Heritage draws inspiration from many cultures, proudly promoting “”cultural healing”" through organic recipes and fair trade ingredients.
(more…)
Soap not Soup! LOL.
Ok, now i will answer that i am awake lol.
there are many ways to add color to soap (and other skin care products). this can include natural colorants (e.g. beet powder), FD&C dyes, and micas …just to name a few. these colorants come in a variety of forms (e.g. liquid, gel, powder, wax chips, etc.).
the colors [of the soap examples below] were achieved by blending (in various combinations) the three primary colors (in transparent and opaque oxide) along with black and white opaque oxide. the colorant used (by drops) is a concentrated gel (manufactured by tkb trading), which is triple the concentration of the regular colors.
(colors react differently to clear and opaque bases …you can't achieve a deep dark color with a white opaque base. but you can create an opaque dark color by adding dark opaque oxide coloring to a clear base …you can darken most colors by adding black oxide.)
is 100%-plant-based, vegan soaps scented with essential oils such as lavendar, almond oatmeal, and ginger lime
At www.shinly.com.tw (English version is http://www.shinly.com.tw/enu/index.htm ), I find some special soap molds, soapmaking kit, candlemaking kit, candle molds, ceramic molds, bar molds, clay molds, tray molds, cake molds, chocolate molds, jelly molds, pudding molds, ice cube molds, pottery molds, garden molds, tile molds, plaster molds and handcrafted stuff.
But each of them looks like metal ones. Are they plastic molds?
Seems pretty clear that the "SHINLY Plastics Corporation" produces plastic products. As you can even get "plastic" cake moulds for baking in these days - which are obviously not thermoplastic, this is not surprising.
I'm going to get Clinique face wash,but I want to know which is more drying to the skin the bar soap or the liquid soap?
I think the bars are pretty smooth and get ur skin soft. but most liquids do too. hmm…tuffy.
i say get the liquid
does anyone know where i can purchase a large qauntitiy of dried flowers and herbs for a decent price without being robbed?i also need soap making supplies cheap.please help.my eyes are tired of searching the internet.
Here are tons of dried flowers to purchase:
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2F&fkr=1&from=R8&satitle=Dried+flowers&category0=
this is my 5th time making soap. i add distilled water to lye, melt the fat, let them both cool to around 95 degrees, mix them, quickly throw in coloring or scent, and pour.
my problem is the scenting - i have used both essential oil and synthetic fragrance. when the soap dries it doesn't keep the smell, and there is an oily residue which i assume is from the oil.
Not sure what your measurements are for you're oils, lye and water mixture - might not hurt to check your recipe using a lye calculator - here's a link to one -http://www.the-sage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php
It could be your fragrance oils make sure they are soap safe and for use in cp soapmaking.
I would would mix the oils and lye mixture between 100 - 115 degrees and would use a stick blender not an electric hand mixer (two beaters- doesn't work as well) - Using a stick blender will also help you reach trace faster too…I usually add my lye mixture to oils and blend for a couple minutes and then add my color and fragrance before trace and this seems to work for me. I sell my soaps at craft fairs after they've cured for 4 to 8 weeks and the sent seems to last fine.
hope you get it figured out - and enjoy your soaps -
Depending on your completed recipe size - I would use at least 2 oz's of sent for no more than 8 pounds of soap
I wouldn't put the soap in zip lock bags till after 4 weeks of cure time has elapsed as the soap may still sweat and make the soap slimy. I store my soaps in cardboard boxes till ready to sell/use.
Kathy Miller has a page devoted to trouble shooting these occurrences - http://www.millersoap.com/trouble.html
What are the differences between the 2? I cannot get a "real" response besides the crazy hippy saying non natural will kill you and the other crazy greedy business side saying they are better because of some ingredients I cannot pronounce. I know we don't need antibacterial because soap washes away the bad bacteria on our skin. (More like dislodged the bad stuff and dirt down the drain.) So, any scientific answers? Thanks.
I like hand made soap myself. I use it because of the naturally occurring glycerin which stays in the soap. Milled soaps remove the glycerin. I think glycerin is a huge help to keep skin moisturized.
Good luck.